Soapstone Hound Part Five - Finishing and Polishing

Finally, we have the hound at a stage where it can be prepared for presentation. This part is perhaps the most contentious, because in the Middle Ages, artisans working in soapstone didn't always spend much time on polishing their creations. Extant Norse pots, bowls, and oil lamps clearly show gouge marks left in the stone during the shaping stage. This is hardly surprizing, given the utilitarian nature of the items. 

Soapstone Bowl (9th C?), Denmark, from the National Museum, Copenhagen

We do see evidence of tool score removal in the case of Islamic steatite (soapstone) chess pieces, however. In period, polish was achieved in a variety of ways--pumice stone, garnet "paper" (very similar to modern sandpaper), polishing powder--even seagrasses. In coastal regions, we also see evidence of manta ray skin being used as a polisher.

East Mediterranean chess pieces, (10 - 11 C) (provenance currently unknown) Note the unpolished stone in the crevices.

The modern aesthetic, however, prefers a high polish, especially on artistic or recreational works. A good cleaning and polishing allows the natural beauty of the soapstone to emerge.

Here is where we find ourselves with the Ashmole Hound. We have thus far created the hound using only period techniques and tools, using no rotary tools or electric devices of any kind. Our only concession to modern technology is to use tools made of steel rather than iron (although I do have an iron chisel in my tool kit). We depart now from medieval techniques in order to present a really professional piece that will appeal to both the eye and the touch.

To achieve this, I am using a set of emery boards in various grits from coarse to extra fine. You may, if you choose also use sandpaper. Sandpaper offers a number of advantages, not the least of which is that you can work wet in order to reduce dust and particulates. When using this method, I usually start with a 200 grit paper and work my way gradually up to 800.

Polishing from top to bottom: The raw hound, chisel, and emery boards from coarse to super fine.

I like the emery boards especially on small projects like these. The hound has a number of creases and folds the sandpaper might have trouble getting into. The shape of the emery boards lend themselves to these details more readily.

On my way to hare-hunting glory!

Here is the hound with only his head polished by the coarse board. You can see there is a significant difference between the smoothness between his head and his untouched body. I will now carry on doing the rest of him until I am satisfied with his finish. I will know I am done when there are no more white lines on the surface.

Occasionally, there is a score on the surface that cannot effectively be removed by the emery boards or sandpaper on their own. In this situation, we go back to the chisel. Turn the chisel over so that the bevelled edge is facing away from you. Then gently and carefully shave the area around the tool mark until it is essentially erased. Then carry on polishing with your preferred method.

When the hound has been cleaned up, we come to the stage where we decide on the final finish. In the Middle Ages, if they bothered at all, artisans probably relied on oils or beeswax. Soapstone, being fairly porous, tends to absorb oils quickly and revert to its unprepossessing greyish appearance. Today, artists have a few options. Beeswax gives the highest gloss finish. It is an excellent choice for sculptures that will be displayed and not handled.

I am hopeful that the hound will have a long career chasing that damned rabbit and will pass through the hands of many players. Therefore, I have chosen to coat him in tung oil, which will give him a high gloss finish similar to beeswax, but better protection. In using tung oil, exercise caution. Work in a well-ventilated area and avoid open flame. When wet, tung oil is highly flammable. Allow the tung oil at least 24 hours to dry before handling and applying a second and/or third coat.

Check me out, bitches!

And here is the Hound finally complete. He's a little hard to see because he is SO dark (that is a gorgeous piece of soapstone, I gotta say), but you can see that I have left his collar untreated and added little dots to it, just for shits and giggles. I toyed with the idea of adding beads for eyes, but for now, I have left him relatively unadorned and very handsome (if I say so myself) in his simplicity.

All in all, I am pleased with how this project turned out. It took me about 30 hours all told. I am looking forward to carving his two packmates in order to finish the game entirely.

I hope this blog has been helpful. If you have questions regarding the process on this or other projects you see here, please drop me a line at talairanperigord at gmail dot com, or look me up on Ye Boke of Face.

Cheers!