A couple of questions that come from students learning how to carve are
1. When do I know it is time to sharpen my gouges/chisels, and
2. How do I do that?
The answer to the first question essentially comes down to a matter of experience. Simply put, if the soapstone (or other medium) seems to be a lot harder than when you started, if you're not getting precision cuts, or if it feels as if you're ploughing through the stone rather than cutting through it, it's time to sharpen your tools.
And how do you do that?
Well, there are plenty of options, from grinding tips attached to a rotary tool (i.e. Dremel) to a grinding machine, but I personally prefer the traditional method of using a Japanese water stone. This is one I got at Lee Valley for about $40.00
1. When do I know it is time to sharpen my gouges/chisels, and
2. How do I do that?
The answer to the first question essentially comes down to a matter of experience. Simply put, if the soapstone (or other medium) seems to be a lot harder than when you started, if you're not getting precision cuts, or if it feels as if you're ploughing through the stone rather than cutting through it, it's time to sharpen your tools.
And how do you do that?
Well, there are plenty of options, from grinding tips attached to a rotary tool (i.e. Dremel) to a grinding machine, but I personally prefer the traditional method of using a Japanese water stone. This is one I got at Lee Valley for about $40.00
It is a combination stone with a coarse side and a fine side. I soak it in water for about ten minutes and then sharpen my tool against the surface, maintaining an angle that matches the bevel provided by the tool's manufacturer. Of course, I start with the coarse (grey) side and then finish off with an equal number of strokes on the fine (brown) side. When I think I have done the job adequately, I test the tool on a piece of paper to see if it cuts nicely. If not, I repeat the process until I'm satisfied.
This is an excellent guide on using Japanese waterstones like mine. There are also videos on YouTube if you learn better by watching.
Moving now to the ongoing process of carving the Ashmole Hound, here is an updated photo of the project with the head and face cleaned up and the haunches carved in. The forelegs are suggested, as is the dog's belly.
This is an excellent guide on using Japanese waterstones like mine. There are also videos on YouTube if you learn better by watching.
Moving now to the ongoing process of carving the Ashmole Hound, here is an updated photo of the project with the head and face cleaned up and the haunches carved in. The forelegs are suggested, as is the dog's belly.
 |
| SPIFF! |
Of course, the haunches are repeated on the other side. More detail is required, such as the collar and the tail. The latter will be curled around the hound's haunches to ensure there are no protruding bits that will break off with handling. More stone needs to come off of the hound's chest and throat, but an eye must always be kept for proportion and symmetry.
The ridge on the top of his face, reflected in the source material, makes him look more like an Afghan hound than a greyhound, and given that they're both sighthounds, I'm satisfied with that. I also think that this might be a matter of trying to render something in 3D that the Ashmole artist rendered in two, so there are likely to be distortions.
No comments:
Post a Comment